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Waxed Canvas
When and how do I know my item is ready for a rewax?
The easiest way to test the waterproofing of your item is to grab a spray bottle and wet the entirety of the item, with extra saturation of highly-exposed areas, and observe if the water is beading and running off. After, let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes and wipe off your item; light, residual dampness on the surface is normal, but the fabric should not be dark or saturated. Check the inside, of your item, if there's permeation, it's time to get it waxed.
What wax should I use for rewaxing my item? Will any wax work?
While it's typically ideal to match your item to the wax of the same brand since it's been formulated for your fabric, you can technically use any reputable brand to wax your item and still get good results without harming the fabric. We recommend avoiding wax that has not been specifically created for fabric waxing.
My item is new, does it need to be waxed?
The short answer is no, but we still recommend testing the waterproofing before your first use. You shouldn't need to wax within the first year, however there are many variables in the production of waxed canvas that affect the final product, everything from storage conditions to the age of the fabric, so performance can almost always be improved, even on new products, with a wax.
Should I use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the wax?
For almost all kinds of waxes, a hair dryer should be more than hot enough; the only exception we've really found for this is microcrystalline wax. A heat gun on a low setting though, will work fine; just be sure it isn't so hot it damages fabric or stitching (synthetic materials are particularly prone to burning). As always, we recommend good ventilation and having your home's fire extinguisher nearby.
I have an unwaxed canvas item that I would like to waterproof, how do I know if it can be waxed?
Almost any heavy fabric that has a large percentage of cotton can be waxed, but effectiveness will vary. We've found that fabric comprised of at least 65% cotton and with a weight of 4oz is the minimum for an item to be a candidate for effective waxing. We offer waxing for unwaxed items, but for items that cannot be effectively waxed, spray-on or wash-in waterproofing solutions can be helpful for improving water-resistance.
How does waxed canvas compare to synthetic materials, like Gore-Tex?
Synthetic materials have their place in the pantheon of outdoor equipment: weight and packability, minimal maintenance (not no maintenance), breathability (though this is product-dependent), and lots of affordable-yet-effective items. That said, we like waxed canvas for a few big reasons: ability to maintain (and even improve) waterproofing over time, durability, ease of effective repair, and longevity.
Will the wax on my item melt in hot weather or near a fire?
Even the waxes with the lowest melting points don't begin to melt until around 100°F (38°C); waxes used for fabric generally have a higher melting point, so unless you have your waxed item out on the hottest days or are very close to a fire for a long period of time, you'll be fine. If you do find wax having melted away for some reason, a simple touch-up of the area will make your item as good as new.
Our Waxing Process
Do you work on _____ brand of jacket?
We work on all brands of waxed jackets, from well-recognized larger copmanies to smaller and more bespoke workshops, even defunct brands that have note operated for decades. As long as the canvas is suitable, we'll wax it.
Past projects include: Barbour, Filson, Tobacco Motorwear, Fjallraven, Flint and Tinder, Iron and Resin, Belstaff, Tom Beckbe, Kuhl, Devium, Freenote Cloth, Tin Duck Denim, Rogue Territory, Heat Straps, and Bradley Mountain; with more being worked on all the time.
What wax will you use for my item?
We use a variety of commercial and proprietary wax blends and select based on what's best-suited for your item. If your item's brand has a corresponding wax (Filson or Barbour, for example), we will use that wax if available. For our proprietary wax blends, they are derived from natural ingredients and are petroleum-free.
Do you do repairs?
Not yet, but we are in the process of establishing partnerships with professional tailors. In the meantime, most local tailors will repair minor holes on waxed canvas. The maker or manufacturer of your item might also provide in-house repair services.
Do I need the Deep Clean Service?
Our DCS is primarily intended for heavily soiled items, and most items will not require deep cleaning. The best thing you can do is contact us, but if your item looks like this, we encourage cleaning. Another quick test: would you bring or wear your item when going out with a friend whom you haven't seen for a long time? If yes, you're likely fine; if you're unsure, then a deep clean may be just the thing to help bring your item back to looking and performing its best.
I love my patina and don't want my item cleaned, can you still rewax?
We want to respect you and your item's relationship and history and will adhere to any request you make, including not cleaning. Because wax typically does not adhere as well to dirty fabric, there is the risk of the item not waterproofing correctly. Please note in your order if you would not like us to perform cleaning.
Caring for Waxed Canvas
Why does my waxed canvas get creases and does affect performance?
"Craze lines" or creasing is common with fabrics treated with wax and is often considered by many to be a big part of what gives waxed canvas its character. While they don't affect performance, they can be an indication of higher-friction areas where the wax may wear out sooner and benefit from touching up.
How do I know what is patina and what is dirt?
Patina is subjective and ultimately what makes you happiest when you see, wear, or use your item, but there can be too much of a good thing. While there is no standard by which to differentiate between the two, we define patina as the composite effect of permanent changes in the materials and construction of your item. This means those changes will remain regardless of cleaning and that we feel that dirt is oftentimes hiding the true, lived-in character of an item. In short, patina cannot be removed, dirt can and should be.
When and how should I wash my waxed canvas?
When and how should I wash my waxed canvas? When an item begins to make other things or people dirty, or if rewaxing still does not render an item waterproof, we consider that to mean it's time to clean. For washing, always adhere to the instructions that accompany your item. If no instructions are included, our recommendation is to spot clean with room temperature water and soft sponge or medium-bristle brush, with only the necessary pressure required to lift the dirt. For stubborn stains or oil, let item soak overnight and then scrub select areas with castile soap, spot-testing somewhere inconspicuous first.
Why can't I wash my items in a machine or with detergents?
First and foremost, because it can ruin your washer and drier. The next best reason is that a hot wash from your washer will melt out much of the wax from your item, requiring a rewax. Even on washing on cold, the surfactants in a detergent will isolate and remove oils, an important component of most wax blends.
Too late, I already washed my waxed canvas item in machine, can it be saved?
If you have already washed your waxed canvas item in a machine, don't worry, you can restore the waterproofing with some persistence. Before rewaxing, melt any wax that has been pulled from the fabric back in and then commence waxing as normal. You may have to do multiple coats, but should be able to restore your waterproofing to normal.
What about washable waxed cotton?
Washable waxed cotton is an amazing advancement and performs wonderfully. There are still special considerations: be sure to wash at the appropriate temperature and do not wash too frequently, as wax will still slowly be removed. We still recommend handwashing to maximize longevity.
How can I touch up waxed canvas before my next rewaxing?
Touching up is not only only safe for your item, but helpful to maintain water repellency as well as protect the fabric and stitching from wear and fraying. If you notice an area where water is penetrating, wait until the area dries and then apply your preferred wax. Ensure appropriate ventilation when melting wax. If you have many areas requiring touchups, washable tailor's chalk can be helpful for noting which spots need to be waxed.